On Diversion and Vanity

 
   Alas! That limbo of the new year's early months is upon us. Cold, wet, and still nursing our financial holiday hangovers, we are confronted with the last dregs of tired Resort stock, in wait of better days whence we might be found basking in the crisp sun of spring, the lastest Sp/Su issues of our favorite magazines scintillating at our laps...

    Pine as we may, "It goes on", and it goes at its own pace, so best console our weary consumer minds with what's at hand. And let's face it, we don't have it so bad after all.

Designers Remix

Minju Kim - H&M Design Award

   
















    The Fa/Wi '13 shows already having begun overseas, and set to launch tomorrow in New York, inquisitors of The Bold and New will be at a surplus of fantastic fodder on which to visually chew. Already, Copenhagen's Designer Remix has given us some lovely softly hued and sculpted pieces to nibble, and H&M Design Award's Minju Kim has given us an impressive hunk of boldly architectural  designs on which to gnaw (although I would advise the tri-colored furry onesie number for external use only).

    And yes, although the short wait for preferred bi-annual glossies' Sp/Su issues shall be met with rankled impatience (magazine department clerks, I am coming for you- once a day every day after overseas release dates...), a sort of middle course may be reached by grasping at the sneak previews of what is to come...

 ...Such as Garage's pre-launch leak of their latest issue which is to mull over the theme of 'Vanity', a topic of acceptable relevance given its origins. Most rousing though is the cover featured editorial, which lensed my Patrick Demarchelier, is inspired by the self-portraiture works of Cindy Sherman. Deriving a base from her recent MOMA exhibited work 'Untitled #461', and working with thatsmyface.com (where one may also take upon themselves to manufacture a minute action figure version of self), models were snapped in the season's finest clad in eerily identical masks.

"There was no better likeness to illustrate issues of identity and facelessness in the fashion industry.", editor Dasha Zhukova opined.

    I guess we'll just have to wait to see what other vain reflections Garage has to make, with issues hitting the shelves this Saturday. In the meantime...on with Fall/Winter on the runway, and cheers to an early spring!

NYFW: Proenza Schouler

   Leave it to Jack and Lazaro to take such a vague notion as "protection" and turn it into a masterpiece collection. I mean really, how are we all supposed to move on from this whole Proenza Schouler obsession craze if they keep on with these fabulous ways? Well, looks like street style blogs will be dominated once again with J and L creations. Eat your heart out Tommy Ton.

    Inspired by the East, models were sent down the catwalk in intriguing architectural creations with references to kimonos and karate gis; think asymmetrical closures, stiff cottons, and leather karate belt ties on skirts. The second grouping saw to some stunning leatherwork...strips cut and woven into the basket-work embellishment of what is sure to become one of the signature jackets for the season. I, however, find myself drawn toward that incredible leather ladder layer, or full-sleeved quilted number. 

    

    The last grouping had more explicit Eastern references, tastefully combined with the urbanity of New York; quilted satin varsity jackets with embroidered pheasants, paired with woven paillette skirts, and structured mini-dresses in pastoral brocade.

    All in all, a collection confirming two things; that generosity is in with wide-legged trousers and spacious outerwear, and that Jack and Lazaro indeed maintain their black belts of fashion into the Autumn/Winter '13 season.

Full collection/review here

NYFW: Timo Weiland

    The "adventure and exoticism of the post-punk era New York City" met 90s grunge at Timo Weiland, setting forth long layers, plaids, and velvet. A recent partnership with Saga Furs saw to lush fox and raccoon pelt accents on jackets...

    Particularly in love with the layering of sweater over gowns, a certain floor dusting vest, and the boys in their two-toned button-ups. Ain't they cute!

Full collection/review on style.com

NYFW: Ostwald Helgason

    Sea monsters, and bold stripes, and a 60s colour palette...OH MY! My first run-in with design house Ostwald Helgason, and I do believe I have a case of love at first sight. Well, 'tis the season after all.

    Taking inspiration from antique maps and Nordic seafaring tales, design duo Susanne Helgason and Invgar Ostwald showed a stellar fashion week debut presentation at Milk Studios yesterday. Sights to be seen: voluminous loose box pleated skirts, structured paneling on dresses, beautifully saturated prints, and some fabulous knits. Also present was that punchy orange that has made its way on many a catwalk this season. 

    The collection as a whole struck a perfect balance that appealed to my often conflicting sense of style; casual sportswear meets the fabulously bold. The epic battles present on sweatshirts, of course, augmented my admiration to obsession. And those striped trousers! I would be ready to take on any fearsome fabled sea creature for one of these pieces.

(Photos via Style Bubble and Milk Made)

NYFW: Band of Outsiders

    

    New York Fashion Week is in full swing, and wearability seems to have been a central theme for most shows thus far. Which, although can leave our appetites for the daring and fantastic a bit wanting, it nonetheless has provided us with some great pieces to look forward to for the autumn/winter season to come.

    So, why not start with a laid-back favorite? Taking us from the rolling plains of the American Southwest, and down to Mexico, Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders presented wholesome must-haves that appealed to the inner nomadic rancher. For the boys; rustic quilted jackets, ticking, Oaxacan-inspired iconography, and some pretty stellar dust-kicking boots. Pour les filles; micro floral prints, prairie-sweeping frocks, luscious fur elements, and a stunning jumpsuit pleasantly reminiscent of a onesie thermal sleeper... 

     Hasta Luego for now friends. Stay tuned for more NYFW delights!

Full collection and review on style.com