MFW: Prada

    "Everyone has a theory about their collections these days, but I'm sick of theory. This collection is about the pleasure of fashion."

- Miuccia Prada

    No theories to study here folks, but there was a delightful intimation of the 70s in Miuccia's collection this season. And what better decade to play upon whilst in the pursuit of joy in dressing? It was, after all, the time of Peacock attire, when men puffed up their feathers in vibrant hues and prints and paraded about in relish of their own fabulous mod. I mean, Brady Bunch prints and long layers over pants...what's not to love?
    There was also some great plexi and sequin embroideries, and appliques on accessories that gave the collection a nostalgic whimsy; the black handbag with orange flowers reminded me of those do-it-yourself accessory kits; except resurrected in deluxe fabric form fit only for pint-sized princesses and pre-debutante socialites...
   

    As per usual, a slew of what are sure to be oft-spotted street style favorites from Madame Miuccia. It will be interesting to see the new proportions of the long tops over pants. I am of the opinion that that pink number in the third down would be particularly agreeable over some cropped chinos and platform sandals. We shall see. Most importantly however, is whether the beauty recommendations will be adopted; orange statement eyebrows and bipolar hair treatments anyone?

Photos from here

LFW: Simone Rocha

    Simone Rocha, having graduated less than two years ago from Central Saint Martins, has been a very busy girl indeed. Showing at London's Fashion East for the past couple of seasons, she has also managed to design a six-piece capsule collection for Top Shop, create a cult-following for her Perspex-heeled brogues, and capture the attention of buyers across the globe. Better keep a close watch on this rising star, because she's streaking along getting brighter all the time.

    For the Autumn/Winter 2012-13 season, Simone met her runway debut with a style I like to refer to as Day-Dream. As in; classic streetwear, made airy by fanciful detailing and textures (ahem, illusively eternal tip-toed lace-ups). Examples of aforementioned style were seen in Linton tweed skirts, veiled and softened by tulle, liquid silver leather coats, and wool knits and tassels on collars. True to form, where Simone Rocha truly left her mark was in the pique of textural elements. Dreamy lace, fluffy wild mohairs, and wool tufted PVC heightened each piece to subtle outlandishness and perfection...

    

    In what we can assume is to be a Simone signature, lace ups and clunky flats were heeled with layered wood and Perspex, upper bodies tying in textures from the collection. Shoe-ins for many a buyer's pre-order I'm sure. Rocha also offered up some fantastic millinery; delightful crochet plays on an inverted visor that I'm oddly fond of despite my general association of said headgear with the Wangster Wave of late elementary school and geeky tourist garb. For the sake of reason we'll call it nostalgic pity love...

    All style psychoanalysis aside though, Simone Rocha has incontestably established her spot on the Must-See lists of fashion oglers around the globe. For those of you remiss to notice her inevitable ascent to success; don't cry when we tell you we told you so.

Photos from here and here

NYFW: Proenza Schouler

   Leave it to Jack and Lazaro to take such a vague notion as "protection" and turn it into a masterpiece collection. I mean really, how are we all supposed to move on from this whole Proenza Schouler obsession craze if they keep on with these fabulous ways? Well, looks like street style blogs will be dominated once again with J and L creations. Eat your heart out Tommy Ton.

    Inspired by the East, models were sent down the catwalk in intriguing architectural creations with references to kimonos and karate gis; think asymmetrical closures, stiff cottons, and leather karate belt ties on skirts. The second grouping saw to some stunning leatherwork...strips cut and woven into the basket-work embellishment of what is sure to become one of the signature jackets for the season. I, however, find myself drawn toward that incredible leather ladder layer, or full-sleeved quilted number. 

    

    The last grouping had more explicit Eastern references, tastefully combined with the urbanity of New York; quilted satin varsity jackets with embroidered pheasants, paired with woven paillette skirts, and structured mini-dresses in pastoral brocade.

    All in all, a collection confirming two things; that generosity is in with wide-legged trousers and spacious outerwear, and that Jack and Lazaro indeed maintain their black belts of fashion into the Autumn/Winter '13 season.

Full collection/review here

NYFW: Timo Weiland

    The "adventure and exoticism of the post-punk era New York City" met 90s grunge at Timo Weiland, setting forth long layers, plaids, and velvet. A recent partnership with Saga Furs saw to lush fox and raccoon pelt accents on jackets...

    Particularly in love with the layering of sweater over gowns, a certain floor dusting vest, and the boys in their two-toned button-ups. Ain't they cute!

Full collection/review on style.com